Castiglion del Bosco, Brunello di Montalcino 2012

A very rare opportunity to have fully-mature Brunello in tip-top condition, ready to drink, from a very fine vintage.

Once it's gone...

This is an utterly delicious glass of wine - broad and layered with complex primary, secondary and developing tertiary characteristics ranging from dark-berry fruit to dried cherry and tea leaves. It is a stunning example of the way that Brunello can blossom: indeed, if you'd drunk it a few years ago you may have wondered what the fuss was about. This was closed and tannic, but is now velvet smooth and perfumed - the magic results of combining outstanding Sangiovese and patience.

Castiglion del Bosco is a fascinating property in Montalcino that covers 200 hectares of land, that is in the vast majority a wild-life forest and hunting reserve. Out of that number, only 62 hectares are planted vines, a meagre 3.1%... It shows that there is clear understanding that not everything in Montalcino turns to gold (though you'd be forgiven for thinking it by the prices in the town...), more-so that after careful land analyses, the best spots for the grapes have been identified. It also allows for breathing space on the estate, that in turn allows for better balanced grapes and a sustainable landscape.

The land has had winery activity since the 1100s, but this is predated by the castle on the grounds and the early Christian church, both in ruins, that date to 1080 or something mad like that. It's a very historic area and a key part of the fledgling post-Roman, post-Goth Tuscany, post-Charlemagne Italy. Montalcino is south of Siena and is one of the major towns on the route north from Rome. You can imagine its position of historic responsibility being strategically vital. Even without wines...

But this is an estate that is now placed at the heart of Tuscany's southern royal mile so to speak. It was a founding member of the Consorzio of Brunello itself and is widely regarded as one of the steadiest and consistently polished producers in the town. The colour is always enticing but, right at this moment, the 2012 has a nose that you'd dive into and swim around in forever. Then the palate... goodness, it's just a real treat.

Want proof from the others?

96 Points James Suckling; 94 Wine Spectator; 92 Points Robert Parker; 91 Points Antonio Galloni. So there.

Interestingly, they are all in agreement that this will be long-living, but the more nuanced reviews say that it is best after 2019 (proving my point...) and it is only Galloni who says it will be good up until 2019... I find that fascinating! Because it shows that they are all right: even Galloni, who essentially says that "in its current form it will stay like this until 2019", which is correct, but it isn't at its best (according to the others) until after then! Which is now!

Which is also why you should buy it!