Gaja, Pieve Santa Restituta, Brunello di Montalcino 2018

This is a rare wine on a number of levels; Gaja's wines are made in small quantities, usually from in the north of Italy; Brunello of this quality is hard to come by at this age of development; and the 2018 vintage was seriously highly-rated.

We have been allowed a very small allocation and are very glad to be able to offer it.

Pieve Santa Restituta is the name of the estate in Montalcino that Angelo Gaja bought in 1994, beginning the expansion of vineyard ownership outside Piemonte, with the Maremma property of Ca' Marcanda to follow, with the IDDA Sicilian project further down the line. Their first vineyard property outside Barbaresco or Barolo since 1859 was always going to be impressive and possess the quality to produce wines that were far superior to those in the rest of the region.

A tall order in Montalcino, but this is Gaja...

Spanning 86 hectares of vines, the property sits between 320 and 350 metres above sea level on slopes facing south and south-west. This gives excellent exposure to the sun while harnessing the cooling winds to prevent vineyard diseases, mildew, over-ripening of the grapes and to increase acidity levels. Again, this is Gaja, so there have been sustained modifications to the vineyards in terms of vine selection and planting regimes, but the site in essence was what they had purchased - its potential - and that is what creates the stellar wines that have been produced ever since.

There are three sections to the vineyards - those immediately around the winery, a 4 and a half hectare site called "Sugarille"; the thee plots that form the higher altitude area called "Rennina" and the slightly younger vines in between these areas. The Brunello di Montalcino Pieve Santa Restituta is a blend of each of these vineyard parts and is the most recent addition to the range because it took them such a long time to work out how best to manage the proportions of each component part. 

The two named regions produce individual wines - Rennina and Sugarille - but this is the wine that is most approachable in youth and is the wine that can be made in almost every vintage.

Made in the most traditional of manners the wine ages for two years in large oak vats before six months of textural ageing in concrete vats and a further year in bottle before release to the market.

The wine is stunning. The nose is unusually fragrant for an Italian red, with plum and red fruits leaping from the glass, laced with Tuscan herbs and balsamic vinegar. The palate carries these flavours with delicious smoothness and notes of vanilla pod and mocha. With perfect balance and a delightful sweet-note in the mid-palate, there is ample evidence that this will age remarkably well as the tannins, though wonderfully manageable, are clearly evident and balanced by supporting acidity and a vibrant, full mouthfeel.

"Hints of oregano and citrus peel accent the tangy red cherry flavors [sic], with lingering hints of smoke and spice on the finish." 92 Points, Stephanie Johnson, Wine and Spirit Magazine