Châteaux L'Escart, Cuvée Eden, Bordeaux Supérieur, 2019

I have held on to a reservation on this wine for about ten months - it is one of the most impressive Bordeaux Supérieurs I have ever had. 

Jet black and concentrated with flavours of black berry, morello cherry and integrated kitchen spices, sweet spices and cedar notes, this is grown up Bordeaux for people who might think that Bordeaux has either a) gone of the boil or b) become too expensive for good quality. This wine is a brilliant riposte to both of those (understandable) quibbles.

Based in the heart of the Entre-Deux-Mers region is the the commune of Saint-Loubès, which is where Château L'Escart's vineyards are positioned. Their 37 hectares grow Merlot, Cabernet Sauvignon and Cabernet Franc. Gérard Laurent and his family have owned the property since 1996 and immediately appreciated the quality of the land and its potential to produce high quality wine without the need for fertilisers or pesticides. Naming this cuvée 'Eden' certainly lets you know their opinion on the land that they have, and in fairness to them, they set about establishing organic and then biodynamic practices across the entire estate. Biodynamic certification eventually came in 2009 and the wines, though very fine already, have certainly become established as some of the best in this very broad category.

It is made using amphorae for ageing at least 50% of the cuvée and this certainly increases the intensity of colour, body and texture; the use of oak then balances some Bordeaux familiarity and completes a brilliant and truly delicious wine.