Von Winning, Weissburgunder Imperiale 2021

This is like Grand Cru Burgundy, but from Germany - this wine is simply one of the best examples of this grape variety anywhere in the world.

Taken from the very best plots in their Ruppertsberg vineyard, which is the same selection for their Royale version, this wine is then rarified further by being made from a selection of the very best barrels in the winery from that same selection. It's the best of the best, from the best winery in Pfalz, which is one of the best white wine regions on the planet right now. It's completely barrel fermented and barrel aged according to the quality of the vintage and the density of the fruit quality: the oak never over-powers and always supports the fruit.

The wine is remarkably shiny in the glass (it really dazzles) and has incredible layers of flavour concentration with a palate that is dizzyingly complex, mouth-coating and incredibly long.

And yes, though almost all Grand Cru Burgundies are made from Pinot Noir or Chardonnay, (you do get some Pinot Blanc in Clos de Vougeot) the quality, intensity and power of this wine is such that you really will check the bottle several times to be truly convinced that you're not drinking Meursault Les Charmes (well, that's 1er Cru) or Le Montrachet (and ok, that's pushing it). But the point remains - you will be totally blown away by this wine.

Ultra-modern yet as old as the Mesolithic seabeds on which these vineyards are based, this paradox joins in vibrant and focused wine-making that uses the best of old techniques and eschews trends by presenting the best of soils, variety and tradition in each wine made. This is the Von Winning way, and no way are we doing that pun, but it is a winning formula. (Oh dear).

One of Germany’s oldest wineries, Weingut von Winning was founded in 1849 and given a new lease of life by Achim Niederberger in 2007. He brought in winemakers, Stephan Attman and Andreas Hütwohl, and well, the results speak for themselves.