Château La Croix St Georges, Pomerol, 2023 MAGNUM

The Janoueix family's premier estate is this staggeringly good property in Pomerol. Situated between Le Pin, Petit Village and Petrus, its small 4.5 hectare site is right in the middle of Pomerol's famed plateau, giving the grapes unparalleled intensity and depth from the hydric stress that this micro-climate brings.

PLUS, THIS IS A MAGNUM: 1.5 LITRES OF IT!

The wine is impeccable: silky smooth, velvety tannins with flavours of plum compote, sweet ripe black fruits, supported by spice and a saline, black olive finish. 

91% Merlot and 9% Cabernet Franc, the vines are planted at an incredible concentration of up to 12,000 plants per hectare giving serious competition for the vines to gain nutrients and dig deep into the clayey, gravel soils. They are on average 41 years old, with some dating back to pre-WWII.

The wine is made without any crushing, with grapes transferred to vats for spontaneous, natural and completely gravity-fed fermentation. Jean-Philippe uses four, enormous 70,000-litre vats for the fermentation and for ageing, he uses half and half new and 1-year-old oak barrels, 80% of which are traditionally shaped, the rest in cigar-shaped barrels that give slightly less oak impact to the wines. 

Oh, and note the price. Magnums are usually more expensive than just twice the price of a regular bottle size, due of the cost of producing them (scarcity, different bottling line and heavier material and more glass etc). This is a rare occasion where the price of a magnum is less than half the price of the bottle. And then some... 

Falstaff, 94 Points

"Deep dark ruby garnet, opaque core, violet reflections, delicate lightening at the edge. Fine heart cherry note with a delicate tobacco undertone, fresh orange zest, dark forest berries in the background. Juicy, elegant, ripe cherries, powerful, round tannins, extract-sweet finish, good length, fine nougat finish, sure aging potential."

Wine Insider, 93 Points

"Flowers, cherries, espresso and dark chocolate crowd into the perfume seeking attention. The wine is rich, opulent, multi-layered and opulent, with a finish loaded with espresso, cocoa and dusty black plums. Give it a bit of time in the cellar to develop and become better integrated with its oaky nuances. Drink from 2024-2040." 

Quality shouldn't be surprising from a winemaker about whom Robert Parker said: "Another spectacular offering from young perfectionist Jean-Philippe Janoueix."

Jean-Philippe is the fourth generation of the Janoueix family to be in the wine business. The family originated from the region of Correze to the east of Bordeaux and Bergerac and just south of the oak forests of Limoges, famed for their barrel-making timber. 

Jean Janoueix established a wine business in Bordeaux in 1867 and his son, Joseph, was the instigator of the plan to buy their own grapes, which then became vineyards and then properties, with Château La Croix Saint Georges and Château la Croix in Pomerol and Saint Emilion respectively in the 1930s. His son Jean-François was to continue this growth with significant purchases during the 1960s, 70s and 80s. our man Jean-Philippe joined his father in 1994 with his first vintage, and his own plans, purchasing Chateau Chambrun in Lalande de Pomerol. he turned this property into the benchmark for quality in Lalande before selling it in 2007. This interestingly seems to be a very normal practice of trading, investing and re-investing in properties to renew and replenish ones portfolio. Not quite the world in which we live, but that's ok too...