Cervaro della Sala 2022

This is one of the finest white wines made in Italy.

It is sometimes, incorrectly, labelled as an "Italian Meursault", which might sound nice, but is missing the point: this is a premium expression of what this Umbrian estate can achieve, which is a Chardonnay (blended with a small amount of the indigenous Grechetto) that reflects its terroir, climate and context, all of which are unique to this place. Not Meursault.

However, it was one of the first ever Italian whites to undergo malolactic fermentation and to be aged in barriques, techniques that are indeed Burgundian, but which also (in the right hands) allow for the quality of the fruit to be supported rather than dominated by oak. It was designed to be a reflection of the place that could age for years, rather than just be consumed in the year following harvest, so again there are influences from fine white regions of the world, but once you try this you'll see just how individual it is.

This wine shows delicious smokey notes and flint-inflected yellow fruit on the nose with top-notes blossom and citrus peel, all decorating a beautiful core of ripe apples. The palate is equally complex with richness of ripe fruit, vanilla and pastry, balanced by lemon-fresh acidity and green plums. They clearly build these wines for ageing but there is a huge amount of enjoyment available, even at this youthful phase of its life.

The Castello della Sala was built in the hills outside the Orvieto region in 1350 and remained in family hands until in-fighting and unrest finally led to the last act of Pietro Antonio della Vipera's life, as he bade his wife (and cousin) Giovanna Monaldeschi della Cervara to give the estate to the church. It stayed there until the unification of Italy in 1850, where all church properties were seized by the new state, but it was neglected until... 1940 when Niccolò Antinori bought it, fully aware that is was capable of making incredible wines. What vision, and what a result.