Cline, Sonoma Pinot Noir 2021

A glorious Pinot Noir that totally overrides any notion that this has to be a 'light' red wine style. 

Complex, rich and juicy with flavours of raspberry, crushed strawberries, bramble fruit and a spice cabinet of cinnamon and nutmeg, this is wine that could really only ever come from California. It is delicious, smooth, balanced and hopelessly attractive. 

Now, this is Pinot Noir, so there are a number of features that even the generosity of the Californian climate and winemaking heritage cannot quash. There is a delightful lift in the tannins compared to other Californian reds, and this allows for a broader range and subtlety of flavours; the alcohol is fairly chunky, but balanced too, on account of the higher acid levels that are naturally present in the grape; this allows for a longer and less aggressive finish, which is delightful and flavour-filled. Its characteristics allow for wider food-pairing options too and this is a really interesting option for rich or spicy seafood, as well as red meat, poultry and whatever Netflix box-set you're currently stuck into.

The other feature that assists in the moderation of this wine is its vineyard location; Sonoma is a broad area and within its walls are significantly differing microclimates and soil types. The Pinot Noir vines planted by Fred and Nancy are in the cooler, higher altitude spots that avoid much of the morning fog as well as the extremes of the midday sun. These then are healthy, balanced and generous grapes that offer a picture-perfect view of California that is at one unique, yet internationally comfortable in style, recognisably Pinot and fully rewarding in execution.

This style has earned the Cline family great respect and has led their wines to feature in select settings world wide. Established in 1982, the winery moved from Oakley to Carneros, in Sonoma, which is now the home of the very welcoming Fred and Nancy, whose pursuit of the "other" established them as some of the original 'Rhône Rangers' in their planting of Syrah, Grenache, Mourvedre and Viognier, as well as their daughters, who now run the whole show.

The Cline search for quality has mutated from vineyard to winery and now all areas of sustainability, which is remarkably telling in the sourcing of all products that the business uses. It seems to be a part of all wineries these days, but there is a sense that with smaller, family-run and owned wineries, that sustainability matters at a more human level. Perhaps it's not as true as that, I don't know, but the commitment is definitely genuine, compelling and very credible.

I met Fred at a wine fair and was immediately hit by his humility, enthusiasm and warmth. The wines, even before that, had always impressed. After that, I was a convert!