Ornellaia, Bolgheri Superiore 2023

One of the world's true Fine Wines.

From one of the greatest vintages in living memory, this is also a genuine collector's item.

Named 'La Vitalitá' the 2023 is a beautifully sophisticated, vibrant and expressive wine that is remarkably approachable right now! It is sumptuous and rich, full, yet perfectly balanced with a long and memorable finish.  

The grapes are fermented parcel by parcel and grape by grape in stainless steel and concrete vats, like Le Serre Nuove, before being moved to oak barrels for malo-lactic fermentation and ageing in 70% new and 30% first-year barrels. The wines are then aged for 12 months before being blended with each other and then returned to barriques for an additional 6 months prior to bottling. Once bottled each vintage rests for another 12 months before being released to market. 

Established in 1981 the rise of Ornellaia to its pedestal of greatness has been remarkably rapid. Few other projects have gained such rapid ascent, yet it's clear that the realisation of what potential lay in these soils was a matter of when and by whom, rather than if ever at all.  This estate is set in the coast of Tuscany set in the pebbly soils next to the village of Bolgheri and is now one of the most highly-prized and respected wine regions in the world. Famed for excellent climatic and soil conditions with a superb selection of vines, there might be a sense that wines from the Bolgheri DOC can make themselves. Though this is partly true, the realisation of the stellar quality that this particular estate produces was planned to the minutest of detail by the estate's owners and founders, the Frescobaldi family, who have been growing vines and making wine in Tuscany for over 700 years.

There's always a load of thought and writing about Fine Wine. I do enjoy reading it and wondering what some of these things might be like to actually consume; but I'm also often concerned that trying to sell them represents a hugely irrelevant struggle. These wines can be so astronomically priced that to approach them is, to many, impossible. Step-forward-second-wines, so. And yes, the second wine for Ornellaia (the superb Le Serre Nuove dell'Ornellaia) is absolutely brilliant, and gives more than a glimpse of the estate and is far more convincing in its own right than some ersatz Tuscans can achieve. But I'll say this about Ornellaia: if you do get the chance to try this, or find someone who'll go halves, or open a present, or just afford it once - you really will enjoy it. I'd reckon more so than Lynch. Or some of the others. It really is that good - this is generosity from the winemaker, the land and the climate - it's a very rewarding special wine, required naff-all in the way of expertise in order to be able to say "that's really worth it".

Monica Larner, 99 Points

"The Ornellaia 2023 Bolgheri Superiore Ornellaia is a blend of 55% Cabernet Sauvignon, 26% Merlot, 12% Cabernet Franc and 7% Petit Verdot, and it is worth noting that Merlot remains present at nearly the same percentage as previous years, despite the greater challenges faced by early-ripening varieties in this mildew-prone vintage. Careful fruit selection made the difference. The wine shows impressive richness and concentration with a bouquet that leans botanical and complex, marked by dark fruit, Mediterranean thyme and rosemary. The nose was slightly closed when I tasted the wine, but it will open. The texture is velvety and polished, delivering beautiful richness with a sense of succulence that feels expansive on the palate. According to proprietor Lamberto Frescobaldi, the goal is to establish a clear through line focused on freshness and balancing fruit and spice while avoiding excess ripeness. This is a meticulously made Ornellaia that captures the vintage with remarkable elegance. The wine was bottled in July 2025 and is scheduled for release in March 2026."

Jane Anson, 100 Points

"Moreish, confident and well judged, this is smoky yet ethereal, muscular yet light, wonderfully juicy and fragrant, with a perfectly judged blend of lightness of touch set against an unmistakable punch of damson, loganberry and red cherry fruits. Liquorice, tapenade and slate ensure the texture is slow and steady, and this is just a fabulous wine. Marco Balsimelli director, 65% new oak for ageing."