This truly spectacular Grüner Veltliner is made from grapes grown in the premier cru site of Renner. The Austrian Erste Lage system is similar to the German and French systems, establishing the very best sites for specific grape varieties in the very best of regions. This is one of the most famous and was one of the wines wines that first turned us onto Grüner Veltliner.
The soils get deeper in this part of the Kamptal, which provides structure for the vines as they dig ever deeper. It also provides immense minerality to the grapes as the loess and erosion of primary rock form multiple deposits of mineral-rich pockets in the vineyard.
The result is a wine of extraordinary clarity, intensity and potential. A nose of fruit blossom, butter, lemon and ripe pear pulls you in to the glass where you meet a wine of rich texture, refinement, complexity and power, all wrapped-up in an incredibly true Grüner profile of white pepper, spice and fresh citrus flavours. No wonder it is a Premier Cru.
Highly-rated by others as well - 91 Points James Suckling; 92+ points The Wine Advocate; 96 Points Wine Enthusiast; and the 2019 vintage scared 95 Points from Parker.
That's the quality latent in growing the right grapes in the right vineyard.
The property itself, Schloß Gobelsburg, dates to 1171.
That's a very long time ago.
It was the year that Ascall mac Ragnaill, the last great Norse-Celtic King of Ireland was captured, trying to defeat Strongbow to become King of Leinster. It's the year that Henry the Second formally annexed Ireland... oh dear. Meanwhile in Austria, Cistercian monks settled in the lower valley of the Wachau region near to the Danube and established a community-based outreach programme to educate and promote better farming practices. The building was a quadrangle that framed an inner courtyard, housed the monks and the winery machinery - and it's still there today.
Not only that, but it is the home of Michael Moosbrugger, the winemaker. He lives there, all alone in the Schloß, making wine and, after his lunch everyday, plays the piano for an hour. He's a really pleasant chap and when I first met him, had just finished learning the Schubert a-minor Sonata, number 16. Which I certainly can't play, even if I practiced for an hour a day after lunch. He's that sort of a renaissance man. And he makes wines that are widely regarded as some of the finest in Austria...
Well, he minds the old monastery's vines with the attention to detail that he minds Schubert, or probably better.
The many sites he manages are simply some of the best sites in the country. He doesn't own any of them outright and shares the names of sites such as Renner, Lamm and Grub with other top, top winemakers. It's just that he has patience and experience to make the best of what he grows.
The lease from the monks was for sixty years - there's plenty of time...
Grüner Veltliner is a brilliant grape variety that seems to be the perfect food matching wine. Textural and semi-aromatic, it often has flavours that are on the culinary spectrum, such as tarragon, sage, oregano and, most typically, white pepper. There are very classic Grüner Veltliners that sometimes present complex aromas as though they have been macerated with a bouquet garni...
Grape(s): Grüner Veltliner
Style: Vibrant, Svelte, Structured, Silky, Pure, Profound, Powerful, Mineral, Medium Full, Intense, Iconic, Herbaceous, Fruity, Fresh, Engaging, Elegant, Creamy, Complex, Bright
Best food matches: Warm Salads, Venison, Tuna, Trout, Tapas, Sushi, St Stephen's Day, Squid, Shellfish, Seafood, Scallops, Salads, Roasts, Red Meats, Poultry, Pork, Oysters, Mature Cheeses, Lobster, Lamb, Hard Cheeses, Grilled Vegetables, Goat's Cheese, Game, Fine Dining, Duck, Christmas Dinner, Cheeses, Charcuterie, Casseroles, Asparagus, Aperitif