Introducing the wines of Javier Bohórquez, Ribera del Duero
For more than twenty years, the high-altitude plot farmed by Javier Bohórquez has yielded fruit to champion his cause - that is to produce wine from this region in a style that was true to his understanding of the place, rather than to any particular wine critic (Parker, ahem) and their preferences.
Javier believed that the soil and climate of the Ribera del Duero was capable of producing elegant, complex, balanced and age-worthy wines.
Starting with one wine, he made a Reserva that has proven his cause to be right and overwhelmingly compelling.
Ribera wines have in recent years become vast, oaky and alcoholic monsters.
Like the Pepsi challenge, we may like that from time to time, and in small quantities, but it will never last.
But what Javier makes is this sensuous, silky and delightful wine that you can approach time and time again without fear of taking a hit to the head.
The main point, however, is that this is a far more authentic expression of the Tinta del Pais (Tempranillo) grape and shows the soils and land capable of producing wines that are remarkably and identifiably unique.
Since introducing his Reserva. Javier has also produced a Crianza, called Cardela and more recently again has leased vines in Rueda, from where he harvests Verdejo, which is lees-aged and acts as a scintillating addition to the vision of this brave, individual winery.
Bravery with humility, as Javier himself is a remarkably gentle gentleman; tall and calm, utterly un-flusterable and endlessly patient, he is quietly proud that his labour has yielded such a clear and consistent achievement of his original goals.
And now, quite deservedly, he is gaining his much deserved recognition from the wine press:
- 93 points from Tim Atkin;
- 17.5 from Jancis
- 90-plus from Parker
- 93 points Guía Peñin
- 96 points Decanter